Wednesday, August 29, 2012
Vilafonte join the ranks of Royalty - from wine.co.za
Wine lovers will be thrilled to hear that six South African wines now form part of the exclusive ‘First Growths’ tastings, held by an international private members club, The Parmigiani White Club (TWC). |
Each year this exclusive club conducts tastings all over the world and earlier this year, for the first time ever, South Africans were introduced to the ‘First Growth’ wines series. As the wine world is ever-evolving, today the term ‘First Growth’ has come to mean not only to Bordeaux wines, but indeed ‘wines of the most exceptional quality’.
The internationally acclaimed non-profit private members' club, TWC, confirmed that the six South African wines that professional tasters picked to form part of the ‘First Growths’ series are, MR de Compostella 2008 (97), Vergelegen V 2007 (95), Villafonté Series M 2009 (95), Waterford Estate The Jem 2007 (96), Epicurean 2006 (95) and Columella 2009 (95), and will all be introduced on the tasting nights. These will accompany the legendary Vin de Constance from Klein Constantia.
It comes as no surprise that South African wines are ranked among these illustrious ‘First Growths’ wines and we are delighted to host two tastings in SA this year. We promise to those attending that the evenings will be unforgettable, glittering black tie experiences,” says CEO f the exclusive Wine Club International, Malene Meisner.
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Over the past few years some of the top South African restaurants and hotels have regularly found themselves among the top 50 restaurants in the world. It is thus gratifying to know that South Africa’s culinary expertise is keeping abreast of the country’s winemaking expertise. After all, wine and food are inseparable twins.
The Parmigiani White Club will travel to Vienna, Hong Kong, Tokyo, Istanbul, Mumbai, Zurich, London, Madrid, Chicago, New York and Burgundy, where the six SA wines will be introduced to wine tasters and wine lovers from all over the world. The Club looks forward to host an elite dinner and tasting in Johannesburg on the 25th October at The Saxon. Cape Townians will also be treated to an exclusive dinner and tasting at The Taj on the 26th and on the 27th October TWC will host a lunch at Delaire Graff Estate.
The language of wine is internationally understood, and these six wines will prove to be the most worthy ambassadors.
For further information on The White Club and the tastings visit: www.thewhiteclub.com
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Friday, August 10, 2012
Vilafonte comes top in Bordeaux Blend tasting
Some of South Africa's most illustrious wines came together in the 'Top 12' Bordeaux blend tasting at La Mouette recently. Both Vilafonte wines performed excellently with the Vilafonte 'Series M' 2009 performing beautifully by coming first in the tasting. The detailed results and individual scores for each wine are displayed below. More info here.
Tuesday, July 17, 2012
Christan Eedes on Vilafonte - the 2009's
Vilafonté is a joint venture between Mike Ratcliffe of Warwick in Stellenbosch and American husband and wife Phil Freese and Zelma Long, Phil an accomplished viticulturist and Zelma equally skilled as a winemaker. The property is in the Simonsberg-Paarl ward and there are two wines under the Vilafonté label, Series C and Series M.
The 2009 vintage was recently released. Scores and tasting notes below:
Series C 2009: 18/20
Price: R450
54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, 8% Malbec. Very expressive on the nose with notes of cassis, violets and attractive oak. The palate displays super-concentrated fruit, fresh acidity and fine tannins. Full bodied but perfectly proportioned. Plenty of weight and power but the wine is entirely in balance and retains great drinkability.
Series M 2009: 17/20
Price: R350
46% Malbec, 32% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Cabernet Franc. Ripe dark fruit and vanilla on the nose. The palate is rich but not unduly weighty. Snappy almost tangy acidity, tannins smooth but not slippery. A voluptuous wine, the high proportion of Malbec lending a slight wildness.
General observation: Prior to the 2009 vintage, the Vilafonté wines have always been serious but rather deliberate and imposing. What is striking about the new releases is that for all their intensity, they still have refreshment value.
Wednesday, July 04, 2012
Monday, June 04, 2012
Lovely article about Vilafonte and Zelma Long by Andrew Jefford in Decanter magazine - today.
Jefford on Monday: Walking and talking with Zelma
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Decanter's Andrew Jefford |
In addition to her work in California, Washington and Paarl, consultations take her to Israel and France -- which was where I caught up with her recently, on a bright spring day in the Rhône valley. We were walking the vineyards of Xavier and Nicole Rolet’s high-sited Chêne Bleu estate, at the intersection of Gigondas and Mont Ventoux.
“I grew up in eastern Oregon,” remembers Zelma, “where nobody drank wine. But I ended up down in the Bay area, and my parents-in-law bought land in the Napa valley and planted it, back in the 1960s. I had a science background, but I wasn’t excited about what I was doing, which was dietetics -- it would be much more exciting nowadays. So I thought I’d go back to school and learn about winemaking. And that was it; that was the start. Then I got recruited for a harvest at Robert Mondavi by Mike Grgich. Two years later he left, and I took over his job as chief enologist. I was there for about ten years. Bob Mondavi really was an incredible man -- optimistic, driven, with clear vision; he was an early thinker about wine culture. And wonderfully good humoured, too; he was real fun to work with. We were always doing something different. If ever there was a wine university, that was it.” Mondavi was followed by Simi, which Zelma eventually left in 1999 in order to concentrate on Vilafonté.She identifies three stages in California’s development. “The first, in the 1970s, was our understanding of winemaking. In the 1980s, we began to analyze the vineyard -- soils, climate, plant materials, planting systems. Then in the ‘90s, we began to put the two together, which I think is the most important. The big challenge now is to work out what’s going on, the nature of each harvest, what the tannin profile is like... Understanding the season; formulating a response. Every vintage is different. That’s what I find wonderful and fascinating about winemaking: it’s a way of telling the story of the vineyard.”What made Zelma and her husband plant in South Africa? “Winemaking technology and wine science travels quickly. But the thing that doesn’t travel quickly is wine growing. You can’t just go to another country for harvest and really understand what’s happened over the season. You need to spend season after season there.” Vilafonté, she says, is “our heart and soul. We wanted to do something where we could start from the beginning and use our expertise and experience and invest it in a small project. We found the land; we planted the vineyards. We only produce two wines. It’s a very focused effort to produce something of high quality.”I’d never tasted these wines until a week or two ago, and I’m impressed. One of them is called ‘Series M’: a Malbec-Merlot blend with some Cabernet Sauvignon stiffening and a shot of Cabernet Franc. The 2009 smells of damson and truffles, and has impressive fruit architecture on the palate: lithe, athletic, concentrated and resonant. The ‘Series C’, meanwhile, is principally Cabernet balanced by smaller percentages of the other varieties. It smells fatter, with more of the ‘fynbos’ in it; has less penetrating fruit but better width and richness, and finishes with a rolling wave of bramble, forest brush and warm clay minerals. They are two of the finest South African wines I’ve ever tasted: authoritative, refined, satisfying. Quantities, alas, are small: 31 barrels of the M and 23 of the C.“I think what South Africa has to offer,” continues Zelma, “are world-class wines of incredible diversity. The Cape is essentially a marine climate; the soils are incredibly old. South Africa to me doesn’t have the massive fruit expression that we see in California, nor is it quite as restrained naturally as we see in France. If you can generalise, I’d say that the wines are very fresh, the tannins are softer (because the climate is a little softer), and the wines have more acid structure and less tannin structure than you get in California. With our own vineyards, we never add acid. People now realise that if you grow the grapes properly, they retain their natural acid.” ![]() |
Vilafonte winemaking partner - Zelma Long |
Her work in Israel has been with the Golan Heights winery, which she describes as “incredibly impressive: the highest quality level I’ve ever seen in a winery of its size and diversity. They brought me in because they wanted to improve the vineyards, and wanted to help the growers understand what was needed in order to do that, and wanted the technical staff in the winery to understand too. They just take information and run with it. I very much like working there.”France is different. “When I first came here many years ago with Robert Mondavi and talked with the vignerons, my sense was that they saw themselves as stewards of their land; they were just part of its long history. I’ve always thought that was very beautiful. I don’t know whether it’s going to continue, because of the nature of our globalizing world, but that history, that culture, than sensitivity to the land makes France a different growing environment, and in a way, a role model. What tends to happen in the New World is that someone comes in with some resources -- and they build a winery. Because you can build a winery; you can hire a great architect and build a beautiful winery. But from my perspective, the investment would be better put into the vineyards first, because that’s what you need to make great wine. That’s what the Rolets have done here at Chêne Bleu; they spent 15 years reclaiming the vineyards before they built a winery and began making wine.”The Rolet family (Xavier’s sister Bénédicte Gallucci looks after the vineyards, and his brother-in-law Jean-Louis Gallucci is winemaker) are not short of advice: Claude and Lydia Bourguignon were there at the same time as Zelma, busily digging pits in the vines, as was another Californian winemaker, Doug Margerum of the Margerum Wine Company. The Rolets, too, make two red wines: the Syrah-Grenache-Viognier Héloïse and the Grenache-dominated Abelard, both released as Vins de Pays rather than appellation wines (the vineyards straddle four AOCs). They are earlier in their evolutionary trajectory than Vilafonté -- I’d like to see less oak than in the initial releases -- but once you’ve ducked behind that sweet sheen they share some of the close-grained purity, innate balance and unshowy finesse of Zelma’s Simonsberg wine. Might that be her doing? I wouldn’t presume to guess, but if 55 vintages of winemaking are going to teach you to pursue anything, purity and finesse have to be somewhere near the top of the list.
Wednesday, May 30, 2012
Post-harvest 2012 Vilafonte Wine Club newsletter
It has been a wonderful time in the Vilafonté winery and vineyards and
we now enter into a post-harvest calm period. We are happy to report that the
2012 vintage has been perhaps the highlight of the past decade and we have
achieved a continuation of our ever-improving quality. This is quite impressive
after a string of four vintages since 2009 that have potential for greatness.
We keep raising our own standards and the results are very satisfying. The 2012
harvest can be characterised by a couple of key quality indicators.
The first indicator, berry size, indicated that we had larger berries
than our statistical average. This has resulted in lush, pretty wines that will
have lower tannin levels than many of our previous vintages. The 2012 vintage
is ‘showy’ and produced impressive wines that will please many critics, but
will perhaps not have the longevity of the spectacular 2009 vintage. Many
members have stocked up on the 2009 specifically because of its above average
ageing potential. The larger berry size contributed to an increased yield of
high quality juice, despite the fact that we barely produced 3 tons per hectare
– an incredibly low yield by any industry standards.
A second characteristic of the 2012 harvest was a much later harvest
date than usual. This is a consequence of unusually cool ripening conditions
that allowed the vines to reach phenological ripeness at a slow measured pace.
These ripening conditions were absolutely ideal, despite an unseasonal heat
wave in early January, which caused many wineries such damage. We would be
delighted if we could get these conditions every year. In 2012 we finally
commenced harvest on Valentines Day February 14th, well ahead of the
rest of the industry, as is our norm, but unusually 2 weeks behind our average
harvest commencement date.
In general, we can report that we have had excellent results and we feel
that the vintage will produce some ‘show-stoppers’. The 2012 vintage will now
remain in barrel for another 2 years allowing our wines to continue their
development into the bottle and for release in about 2014.
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our soil-type is called 'vilafontes' |
Included in this newsletter is a photograph, which epitomises what Vilafonté
is all about. This simple image, taken during harvest 2012, is an image of Vineyard
Manager Edward Pietersen with a handful of our precious vilafontes soil – the very essence of what our wines are all about.
The ‘heart’ connection with our Valentines Day harvest date is entirely
coincidental.
Our wine club continues its measured growth and we have many new
developments in the pipeline including newly upgraded wine packaging, a winter
mixed case vertical offer and a brand new club website. We have planned a
number of discrete member-only events across the country, which we will be communicating
separately. Thank you to so many of you for having recommended friends and
colleagues for membership. While we cannot accept all applications, we will
always strive to accommodate referrals.
Vilafonté Wine Club Manager, Sophia Hawkins is committed to engaging
with our members exclusively. Her details remain Sophia@vilafonte.com and her direct-dial
phone is 021-8864083. Remember, no request is too much trouble.
While the Vilafonté
winery is not open to the general public, I would like to personally ensure you
that as a wine club member, we will always welcome you with open arms. Let us
know when you are in Stellenbosch.
Thank you for your
support and your engagement.
Mike Ratcliffe
Managing Partner
Thursday, May 24, 2012
Tuesday, May 22, 2012
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